🏛️ Military History Museum – Weapons, Uniforms & Equipment

Preservation of historic weapons and equipment

We are responsible custodians of history

My perspective on owning these historic artefacts is simple: they existed long before they came into my hands, and they will exist long after they are passed on. We are only temporary custodians.

I maintain and carefully clean these items, but I do not restore them or attempt to make them look new. If I am holding a flintlock musket used by one of Frederick the Great’s infantrymen at Leuthen, and it shows some surface browning and wear, that is entirely appropriate — it is patina. To polish or attempt to remove those layers of history would be to erase part of the object’s story. I leave them as they are.

I have made only a few exceptions, where items were severely deteriorated or structurally compromised, and have carefully stabilised them to prevent further loss.

Handling and care principles

When handling military antiques, gloves should ALWAYS be worn, and visitors should also wear gloves if they wish to handle an item. Fingerprints contain oils and acids that can initiate corrosion on metal surfaces or promote mould growth on leather and textile items.

Firearms, swords and bayonets

On historic metal objects such as muskets, pistols, bayonets, and swords, I do not use oil except in very small amounts within mechanical components where necessary. Lubricating oil was appropriate during their working life, but is not suitable centuries later, as it can leave residues and promote deterioration.

The appropriate protectant is an acid-free microcrystalline paste wax (such as Renaissance Wax), which protects the surface from moisture and contaminants without penetrating or altering the metal.

Leather and textiles

For leather and textile items, I limit intervention to the removal of dust or, at most, very light cleaning with a slightly damp cloth. Leather more than a century old can be rapidly damaged by the application of liquids, conditioners, or modern cleaning products.

Helmets and headgear

Helmets and headgear form the largest component of my collection, including hundreds of Imperial German pickelhauben, First and Second World War steel helmets, Australian slouch hats, peaked caps, and other examples.

Headgear should never be rested on its brim. Cotton stitching more than a century old cannot bear the weight, and helmet liners will collapse or crack if unsupported.

Specialised stands are not necessary. Instead, I use several sheets of acid-free tissue paper formed into a roughly head-sized ball. This can easily carries the weight of a pickelhaube or soft hat while preventing stress on peaks, brims, and liners. The tissue also supports leather liners and prevents collapse over time.